Work Proceeds on the Engine Compartment
I spent most of Monday night working on putting the engine compartment back together. My regular reader will remember that I’d previously installed the radiator, but it had to come out to work on the shroud, fan, and belts. With the transmission reinstalled and the correct fan spacer, bolts, and belts ready to go, I finally felt ready to install the radiator and shroud for final.
The radiator went in without a hitch, and in fact I was able to get the shroud on without using the washers I thought I’d need. When I’d test-fitted the shroud several weeks ago, the brackets seemed slightly too narrow, so I’d added two washers to space the bracket away from the radiator. But, as it turns out, I didn’t need them. With the radiator in place, the brackets fit inside the channels and allow the shroud to install tightly against the core.
I probably shouldn’t admit to this, but when I started putting the bolts in for the radiator, I’d used a box wrench. Mistakenly I’d figured there wasn’t a way to get a socket in there. So I spent 20 minutes rotating the box wrench back and forth, slowing turning in the screws. Eventually I realized that Ford had provided cutouts to make using a socket possible. And bingo! I had the rest of the screws tightened and torque’d to spec in two minutes.
What I’ve Done So Far…
In addition to the radiator, fan, and shroud, I also installed the distributor vacuum tube, air cleaner, carburetor, belts, and one of the PCV lines. I feel like the engine compartment is really starting to come together.
There are only a few things I need to do to button up the engine compartment. I need to install/make up the hot air choke stove lines. I need to find and install a PCV return hose. And, I need to order some new battery cables and install a disconnect switch.
Fun with Battery Cables
The astute regular reader will note that I have battery cables already. The cables I have are concours-style cables, and I hate them. Whether the factory did it that way or not, it seems like poor form to me to have copper showing at the lugs. The insulation should end at the lug, not before! I believe the cable should be airtight (via heat shrink or solder) and that it shouldn’t just be crimped. Since I had to pull the starter cable off to remove the oil pan, I figured now was a good a time as any to take measurements and have the cables duplicated in a heavier gauge wire with proper ends.
I’ve had very good luck with CustomBatteryCables.com and plan to use them again for this order. Of course, if I can find the right cables in the Standard Motor Products catalog, that’s cheaper. But with Custom Battery Cables, I can specify exactly what I want. I did that on the Packard for 3/0 cable and couldn’t have been happier. And the right cables make a huge difference.
After I realized that I had bare spots in the cables on the Edsel, I ordered up a set in 1 ga. from Standard. I think the total cost was somewhere in the realm of $30 for four cables. As it was the Edsel cranked over just fine, but with the new cables, it’s like I turbo-charged the starter. The Mustang came with pretty flimsy cables from the factory; the ones I have are already thicker, but they’re not thick enough. Sure, it’s probably overkill. But, I figure if I get a good-looking set of battery cables, it’s worth it.